SUNDAY FEATURE : Sangla Chitkul – The Ultimate Retreat

With the scorching sun, parched landscape and ever thirsty air – it is indeed a fortune to travel to areas of extraordinary beauty in the picturesque Himalayan range, splattered with glaciers and turquoise blue lakes, rivers and streams. Travelling to remote areas is always thrilling but only a few offer adventure and spirituality with the aroma of love. And Sangla-Chitkul proves to be one such perfect summer retreat package!

En route

On the way to Sangla, Shimla can be the first stopping point. Tour around the famous mall with its church and mock Elizabethan architecture to sink in the city’s feel. Sangla is a ten hour drive from Shimla. Sangla and Chitkul are in Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh. Kinnaur is a land of legends and is bestowed with the choicest bounties. It has the Great Himalayan range and the high Dhauladhar ranges surrounding it. The road is good for most of the journey up to Rampur except for few stretches in between and is fairly decent up to the valley. While en route to Sangla, apart from the serene views there is a huge statue of Lord Hanuman which is awe-inspiring with the beautiful mountains in the backdrop. It is built in a temple compound on the side of the road after crossing Rampur and is quite eye catching. The journey can take on the spirits but it’s worth the ‘heaven’ in close proximity.

Hindustan – Tibet Highway

The redolence of Love and Spirituality

Sangla Valley is also called Baspa Valley. It follows the 95km long Baspa River which gives breath taking view. The valley is a remote area with nature in its pristine form and a romantic enchantment that is un-ignorable. Saffron fields, cumin crops, apple and walnut orchards fill the valley-rendering the air with love and passion. The road climbs the steep slopes giving way to beautiful alpine meadows.

The scent of apples in the air is overwhelming

Sangla is the largest village in the area and is situated on the hind side of Kinner Kailash range. It is built high on a slope with the village houses rising in tiers. The local people have a distinct Kinnauri dialect and culture. The fruit, the charming faces of Kinnauri women, music and rhythm of the Kinnauri community life are irresistible.

Kinnauri women in their traditional attire

 It is here that one gets to see and experience the subtle mergence of Hinduism and Buddhism. Nag Temple and Devi Maa Temple are typical examples of this amalgam in the valley. The Nag Temple is also central to the flamboyant Phulaich Festival – ‘The Festival of Flowers’ which is held annually in September. The villagers from around the place get together at the festival. They dress up in colourful clothes and sing and dance under the trees. It is a splendid experience and a real feast to the eye and soul! The village of Kamru, situated about two kilometers above Sangla, can also be visited for the temple of Kamayakha Devi. The castle like temple has the idol of the goddess Kamayakha brought from Assam centuries ago.

Kamayakha Devi Temple

The last village

Chitkul can be reached via Barseri and Rakcham. Barseri is a green valley in the midst of barren surroundings. Immediately above the village of Barseri is Rakcham. Here the valley widens and the road passes through wooded hillsides. Finally, Chitkul is the last village on the old Hindustan –Tibet trade route. It is also the last point one can travel to, without permit. The road does not lead to the border but closes around 90 kilometers before it. The rest of the area is under the control of Indian Parliamentary force ITBP.  

A wooden hut at Chitkul

Of particular interest at Chitkul are its houses, with either slate or wooden plank roofs, Mathi Devi temple, a small tower and potatoes (they are famous for their distinct taste and texture; and the high price!)

The Mathi Devi temple is apparently the oldest in the valley and has beautiful pagoda style architecture. The place evokes feelings that are hard to define in earthy terms. The small monastery at Chitkul has a highly valued, old image of Sakyamuni Buddha. There are four statues of directional kings on either side of the door, as well as a wheel of life.

Trekkers’ call!

For those who are fond of trekking, there is a beautiful trek up the Baspa from Sangla through Chitkul to Dhumti. A trek to Nagasthy up to the last Indian post is also a good option if with family since it is easy and flat. The 1,000-year-old Rekong Peo, known for the chilgoza forests, the Nako Lake and the Kalpa valley are just 55 km away and definitely worth a visit. One can also trek to Yamunotri, Harsil or Har-ki-dun directly from Chitkul but these are difficult treks requiring thorough preparation and proper equipment.

Baspa river flowing next to Chitkul

The valley is considered one of the most beautiful, astonishing and spell binding in the entire Great Himalayas. Trekking or hiking across it is a gift in disguise. One feels more than eyes can see! It’s a place where waters meet below, while snow capped mountains touched the sky. It’s a place where a wandering traveler could find solace.


Best time to travel: May to October is a good time to visit but April-June and September-October would be the best. Avoid during Dusshera and Durga Puja season!

Climate: It is cool but nevertheless it might get chilly even in summers so do take some woolens along.

How to reach: Chitkul is about 255kms from Shimla. Follow the NH22 till Karchham via Narkanda, Jeori and Rampur. At Karchham, take a right diversion and go via Rakcham and Sangla to reach Chitkul.Where to stay: There are a few hotels and resorts. Also, booking can be done at the HPPWD Guest House.

Published in Hindustan Times on 24/6/2013


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